At least a dozen times over the last 30 years I’ve made the strenuous climb up to Frog Lake Cliffs north of Donner Summit and gazed down 1,000 feet to the little alpine lake known as Frog Lake. For more than 100 years the lake was privately owned, with a few rustic cabins situated on a knoll above the lakeshore. It was a place only to be looked at longingly but not touched.
Then in 2020, Truckee Donner Land Trust, with a variety of other partners, purchased the property and began the process of creating a unique opportunity for people to hike in and enjoy the historic rock and timber house and spend a few nights in one of the new huts. While the huts are especially popular in the winter with back-country skiers, my lack of back-country ski skills led me to the decision to check out its summer charms when Joyce Chambers and I spent two nights at the huts at the beginning of August.
History of Frog Lake
In 2020, after several years of negotiation with the Smith Family who had owned the property for many decades, Northern Sierra Partnership, composed of Truckee Donner Land Trust, The Nature Conservancy and the Trust for Public Land, purchased the property.
“The Northern Sierra Partnership is a long-running partnership. We have worked together on a number of projects,” said Greyson Howard, the Land Trust’s communications director. Then came the 2-year task of fundraising and planning for the new huts.
It is important to understand that while the Frog Lake setting is extraordinary and the buildings are modern, clean and charming, it is a somewhat rustic experience.
Howard credits Perry Norris, the former longtime executive director of the Land Trust, for the Frog Lake project coming to fruition.
“I don’t think this would have happened without Perry’s vision for many years, ” he said.
After his recent retirement, Norris took a short stint as a hut master at the property last December. After spending a month doing almost nothing but shoveling and blowing snow to keep the huts accessible, I wonder whether he had second thoughts about accomplishing his goal.
Howard also credits the Smith Family, the former owners of the property.
“They chose the Land Trust over higher bidders because they wanted to see it conserved, to be used like they enjoyed it,” Howard says.
The family was also appreciative that the house, now known as the Eichenbach Stone House, was preserved.
The back-country hut experience
The centerpiece of the experience is the nearly 100-year-old lodge. It’s a charming stone and timber house that includes a large full kitchen available for use by hut customers, a living room with large fireplace and a small reading room. For summer users, an expansive rock patio overlooks the lake and serves as a relaxing place to while away some time. Below the patio several trails wind through the manzanita and giant boulders to the shore of Frog Lake. The incredibly imposing Frog Lake Cliff reaches high into the sky across the lake from the huts.
The three huts were designed as modular pieces, primarily composed of metal, that were brought in and assembled on site. This approach was easier than normal construction in this difficult-to-access location and had less impact on the sensitive area near the lake. The partnership also constructed a new water and sewage system and created some interesting sitting areas with the beautiful granite that surrounds the building.
“The goal was to balance access to the property with conservation goals,” said Howard.
The huts all have different configurations that are suited to different sized groups. It is important to understand that while the Frog Lake setting is extraordinary and the buildings are modern, clean and charming, it is a somewhat rustic experience. There are platform bunk beds; you need to bring your own sleeping bag and pillow. There are no showers. You will be living communally with up to eight people sharing a bathroom. In other words, while you can find plenty of peace and serenity during the day along the lake shore, that may come to a screeching halt when the guy above you in his bunk starts snoring. Oh, and you might need to synchronize your visits to the bathroom. Also, hut occupiers are expected to clean their rooms before departure.
The kitchen, while well-appointed with a commercial grade stove and plenty of refrigerator and storage space, might be shared with up to five groups of hungry hikers. So, cooperation and taking turns will be essential. There are two large tables available for communal dining, as well as tables on the patio. And of course, it is essential that everyone keeps clean as they go in the kitchen. All garbage that you create, you must take out.
In other words, this is not a hotel. But it is certainly a step above setting up a tent (which is not even an option at this lake as camping is not allowed). You can bring in food, not just backpack food and cook it in a real kitchen. You don’t need to filter water. And, when it is your turn, there is a toilet to use. The experience is also heightened by the presence of the hut masters who give guests an orientation and keep everything running smoothly. They also encourage all of us to practice Leave No Trace principles. Our hut masters, Deana and Forest, were a delightful couple, with whom I spent several evenings talking to at length about backpacking.
The hike in
The first step of your hut experience — well actually many thousands of steps — is to get to Frog Lake. This is no walk in the park. It’s a challenging adventure that requires a full backpack. It is 6 miles of hiking with more than 1,800 feet of climbing two impressive ascents both on the way in and on the way out. The main route is via the Pacific Crest Trail trailhead just off Interstate 80 on the south side of Donner Summit.
The trail meanders around for about a half mile south of the freeway, before crossing under I-80 and making its way to the long first ascent on the Warren Lake Trail. After 3.5 miles of sometimes steep climbing, you reach a saddle where a quick jaunt brings you to the Frog Lake Overlook. Along the way, we took a few much-needed breaks to breathe and marvel at a few especially prolific patches of tiger lilies.
Next up is a quick, steep descent diving through a forest of hemlocks and small streams bustling with wildflowers to a junction where the Red Dot Trail heads toward Frog Lake. But you are not there yet. First, you have a rather steep descent through a thick forest to a small stream and then a climbing traverse through a rocky slope to a saddle. You can see the lake filtered through the trees still a long way below, but the trail makes quick work of it on a switch-back descent through an open forest of huge western white pines and ground mat manzanita. Eventually you arrive at a dirt road where a right turn brings you to the Frog Lake Backcountry Huts above the lake shore.
Prepping for a trip to Frog Lake is fairly similar to any other backpacking trip. I was a bit chagrined that after removing the bear canister, tent and sleeping pad from my usual backpacking list, my pack still seemed awfully heavy. Perhaps it was the extra fresh food we brought in since a kitchen awaited. And, of course, you still need clothes, a sleeping bag, pillow, etc. Also be sure to bring plenty of water for the hike in. We heard that several people had set out for the huts unprepared for the journey. One group even called from the top of Frog Lake Cliffs saying, “We are out of water. Are we almost there?” Umm, no.
We enjoyed our trip to the huts. The hut masters were great folks to hang out with, the lake was quite peaceful and beautiful and it was fascinating spending a few days at this place with so much history. While we had some rain and cool temperatures, we also were lucky to only have one other group at the lake while we were there — which was a big plus for this backpacking couple who enjoys solitude.
Be sure to carefully read all the information and understand both what the challenges are of getting to the lake and what the experience will be like once you get there. Also remember, if you are planning on visiting the area in the winter, it takes advanced back-country skiing skills. | truckeedonnerlandtrust.org
The Trail
6 miles one way | Challenging
1,800+ feet elevation gain
The Huts
As of press time, there was still some limited availability for summer & winter visits
