Graziano Nicosia, fifth-generation winemaker ·
Note: New York City is the site of many wine tastings, and guest columnist Richard Dare recently attended the presentation of Nicosia Wines at the Culinary Loft in Manhattan. Below is his report on these fine, Sicilian wines.
Deep in the heart of Sicily, generous and untamed, labor Nicosia’s fine winemakers hidden in the shadow of a 10,000-foot high volcano – Mount Etna – which dominates the horizon just behind the 115-year-old winery in Trecastagni, Italy, nourishing the soil with thousand-year-old ash. But, this taster thinks more than the volcanic soil, more even than the perfect goût de terroir, is the skillful blend of Denominazione di Origine Controllata grapes that Nicosia’s five generations of family winemakers employ to infuse Nicosia’s full-bodied, irrepressibly aromatic offerings with what can only be described as emotional intensity worthy of a Sicilian.
A delightful aperitif, Nicosia’s Fondo Filara Frappato is a vivid red in the glass, with a pleasantly fragrant bouquet of fresh red fruits, raspberries and blueberries. It has a fresh, lively profile and should be served slightly chilled. Frappato pairs well with cheeses and salamis or pizza; it’s also a valid alternative to white wine, particularly when served with flavorful fish course dishes. 12.5 percent alcohol. $15 to $20 per bottle retail.
Nicosia’s Fondo Filara Etna Rosso is a skinnier wine for my taste, but still ruby red, producing an intense bouquet with elegant hints of wild red fruit, spices and licorice. It’s dry, robust and lingering with a long and pleasant balsamic finish that seems a wonderful accompaniment to such first-course dishes as risotto, roasted and grilled meats, or semi-aged flavorful cheeses. 13 to 14 percent alcohol. $30 to $33 per bottle retail.
The Fondo Filara Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico is the color of cherries, and boasts a rich, aromatic profile featuring hints of red fruit. It’s warm with a smooth taste and pairs well with roasts, grilled meats, small game, and sharp and aged cheeses. I enjoyed it with a bit of Amedei chocolate from Tuscany (70 percent cacao blend), which created a sort of multiplier effect bringing the wine’s tannins to a luxurious effect. 13 to 14 percent alcohol. $30 to $33 per bottle retail.
And, finally, Nicosia’s satisfying, full bodied Sosta Tre Santi Nero d’Avola is grown on 25-year-old vines. It appears dark ruby red in the glass, with a typically fruity aroma with touches of morello cherry. The fruity aroma can be tasted in the mouth, warm and lingering, and would prove an ideal accompaniment to many of the tastiest Italian recipes including baked pasta with meat sauce or meat couscous, roasted game and aged cheeses. 12.5 to 13.5 percent alcohol. $40 per bottle retail.
For more information on these wines, visit nicosiawines.com.
By Richard Dare
