By Lou Phillips ·
Regardless of the season, walking through the huge teak doors and experiencing the waterfall bar and inspirational views of Jake’s on the Lake introduces you to the nautical vibe that has kept patrons coming back for decades. Whether you are enjoying the legendary oyster bar or any of the indoor or deck dining areas, Jake’s is pure North Tahoe. Combined with the energy general manager Jeff Hill brings to the restaurant, one could argue that Jake’s on the Lake is better than ever.
A nice treat to start is the Gloria Ferrer NV ($9.50 by the glass). A sparkling wine, from the Carneros district of Sonoma, it is made with the traditional grapes (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), and wine-making methods of Champagne. This sparkler brings body that is crisp and silky at the same time, and classic citrus and biscuit flavors. It’s a great partner for the fresh shucked oysters with pineapple mignonette.
The 2012 Carol Shelton Coquille Blanc ($12 by the glass) is composed from Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier, which are grapes typical of the white wines of the Rhone. It’s full of white flowers, crisp pears, hazelnuts and mineral notes. What better pairing than the Hearts of Palm salad with butter lettuce, basil vinaigrette and hazelnuts. The 2012 Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir from Russian River ($64 for the bottle) delivers a large dollop of California sunshine (think bold cherry cola) with sophisticated earthy components. The oak-aging also is featured here with some tannin backbone and even a touch of chocolate. The Panko-crusted korubota pork chop from rare Black Berkshire Pigs served with sweet potato hash and a ginger scallion sauce carries the same sensual breadth as the wine. Mmmmm.
The 2005 Bremer Family Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa ($52 by the bottle) shows that 2005 is one of the more structured and age-worthy vintages from Napa, and the Bremer doesn’t disappoint. Cassis and blackberry gives way to leather and smoke reminiscent of a left-bank Bordeaux. This wine cries for beef and savory mushrooms. Luckily, Jake’s offers a center cut filet with shitake soy jus. C’est magnifique.
The wine list is heavy on selections from the great AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) of California, and this cellar shows a well thought out focus on wines that marry organically with Jake’s cuisine. There are plenty of bottles that won’t stretch your wallet and also indulgences (can you say 2003 Shafer Hillside Select Cab or 2000 Dom Perignon). You will find wines to keep you entertained and satisfied on multiple visits.
Jake’s is located in the Boatworks Mall in Tahoe City. For more information or to make reservations, call (530) 583-0188 or visit jakestahoe.com.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 Sommelier specializing in guiding private collectors and businesses in buying and selling wine collections. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com.
