By Lou Phillips ·
Proprietor Chris St. Martin ·
From the moment Chris St. Martin became involved in the restaurant business in Connecticut he said that he had a vision of opening his own place. After moving to Truckee and spending 10 years as a barman and then wine director at Cottonwood restaurant, he and business partner, Ryan Dierks, took over the former Dragonfly space on Commercial Row in downtown Truckee and lit the candle of Truckee Tavern and Grill. Featuring one of the best decks with mountain views and prime people watching, these guys have created a cutting edge wine-dine program.
The Truckee Tavern wine program doesn’t contain the usual suspects. This list is full of finds from the world over including exciting producers from France, Italy, Spain and the Southern Hemisphere, as well as established and up-and-coming stars from the U.S. are on feature here.
Hailing from Burgundy, the Jean-Paul Brun Charme, $52 a bottle, is a 100 percent Chardonnay Sparkler that has an intensity and freshness balanced by creamy notes that make it a wonderful food match. A wonderful dance partner here is the Classic Wedge Salad with Bleu Cheese and Tomato, featuring an added twist of Crispy Bacon.
Mountain views await on the deck ·
The Finger Lakes area in New York has one of the world’s best terroirs for Riesling. Hermann Wiemer Winery is a pioneer of this region and its 2013 bottling, $42, is a made in a dryer style with a wonderful mineral streak and acidity to go along with stone fruit aromas and flavors. Riesling like this cries out for spicy food and the Tavern’s Grilled Shrimp with Spicy Jus proves to be an excellent course-mate.
The Spanish Mencia grape is often compared to Pinot Noir with a little extra backbone and spice. The 2011 Pedro Rodriguez version, $46 a bottle, brings the goods with rustic cranberry, dark cherry and slate components on a medium body. Sage Sausage with Caramelized Onions and Fries is a wonderful pairing with savory sausage and sage notes matching this wine’s song note for note.
Adam Lee of Novy creates some of California’s best Syrahs, and 2012 is considered a Goldilocks Vintage in the Sunshine State. This perfect storm comes together in the bottle with the 2012 Novy Sonoma Syrah, $45, bringing all of the fruit, savory flavors, minerality and balance that Syrah is capable of. In concert with the Buffalo Tri-Tip there will be wine-food magic at the table.
Visit and create your own wine and food journey, or put yourself in the hands of the knowledgeable staff. Either way, be sure to put Truckee Tavern and Grill on your summer dining list.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (advanced) Sommelier and wine educator specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
