By Lou Phillips ·
Enjoy innovative, world cuisine from Chef Amy Simpson ·
Jack Rabbit Moon in Incline Village is a summer-only spot on the North Shore, and for fans of diverse wine offerings and amazing food, The Rabbit’s summer renewal is worth the wait. After all, JRM has been featured in no less than Food and Wine magazine.
Matching the food-art of owner and Chef Amy Simpson’s innovative, world cuisine means painting with a broad brush in the wine program. General manager and barman extraordinaire David Eisenstark has done a remarkable job here covering myriad varietals, regions and styles in the cellar, while offering curated selections at all price points.
Jules Taylor is one of New Zealand’s rising stars and her 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, for $10 a glass, is a textbook Kiwi SB. Full of citrus, chive and, yes, kiwi-fruit flavors, it displays the freshness that the Marlborough region is famous for. This would work with almost any salad, but really shines with the Baby Greens and Melon with crispy prosciutto, Blue Cheese and citrus mint vinaigrette.
The 2014 Soucherie Anjou Blanc is an expression of Chenin Blanc at its finest. Stone fruits and limestone wake up the palate, and there is a unique attractive oily mouthfeel that is distinctive to wines from the Loire Valley. Great Chenin is considered an almost universal food match, but if you let it dance with the Coconut Mussel Crudo with serrano and candied lime, that’s perfection.
Al fresco dining at Jack Rabbit Moon ·
Another cuisine friendly wine is quality Beaujolais, and the 2013 Domaine Dupeuble, at $11 a glass, lives up to that billing. Bright raspberry and strawberry, and a beam of mineral make for a wonderful foil to the Salmon over celery and fennel puree, mushrooms and ginger beurre blanc, $36.
For a luscious finale, combine Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port, at $12 a glass, that has the richness and nutty smoky profile to create happy mouth syndrome when combined with the Chocolate Almond Tort with Smoked Chocolate Ice Cream.
As with most restaurants, Jack Rabbit Moon has a nice range of younger wines, but it’s their cellar selections that make this a destination for aficionados.
Some treasures in that category include the 1990 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the greatest Monte Bellos ever at $395. The 1989 Castello Conti, a Nebbiolo-based wine reminiscent of a top tier Barolo at $240. The 2003 Roda Reserva Rioja, a traditionally crafted Rioja from a blockbuster vintage at $158. And, the 2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, one of the world’s best for $300. David will be adding more rare offerings in the future.
Jack Rabbit Moon is open for dinner in Incline Village at 893 Tahoe Blvd. For more information or for reservations, call (775) 833-3900 or visit jackrabbitmoon.com.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (advanced) Sommelier and wine educator specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
