By Lou Phillips ·
Nestled on the North Shore sits Zagat-rated Tahoe treasure Christy Hill. Owners and bon vivants Robyn Sills and Ed Coleman have a mission of delivering “modern American dining that is locally sourced and crafted with love.” This is executed in the kitchen by Chef Andrew Shimer, who except for his years working some of the best kitchens in the Bay Area, is a life-long Tahoe resident.
Summer is the time for Rose and the Bandol region of Provence is renowned for The Pink. The 2013 Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol Rose, $30 for a half bottle, is mostly Mourvèdre and as such, a dry Rose with tangy, strawberry and rose petals on the nose and palate. It also has enough acid and tannin to complement strong food flavors. A nice course-mate is the oysters on the half shell with Bloody Mary granita. The creamy briny bi-valves and the spicy-berry structured wine make for a great way to start a feast.
Salad is a perfect second act here, and the perfect salad wine is Sauvignon Blanc. The 2012 Reverdy Sancerre, $28 for half bottle, is a lime and grass-flavored lip-smacker from the Loire Valley in France and is a wonderful match for the asparagus salad with duck prosciutto, fromage blanc and hazelnuts lifted by a ponzu vinaigrette.
The year 2012 was a seminal vintage in Oregon and winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash is one of Willamette Valley’s best. Put the two together and you have Penner-Ash Pinot Noir heaven for $68 a bottle. Pinot is such a food friend that there are a myriad of possibilities, but none better than duck. Unless, it’s a duet of duck with both a roasted breast and leg confit with risotto, greens, feta bacon vinaigrette and cherry gastrique. Sorry, I think I fell into a food-wine dream for a moment.
Under Chef Shimer, Christy Hill has become known for adventurous entrees and the bison short ribs are always a draw. Served here with smoked bacon, roasted potatoes, chard béchamel and red wine jus, this dish deserves a wine with soul like the 2012 Vieux Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape, $68. Primarily Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut, this wine brings the garrigue – the French term for soul of the land – and some nice berry and grilled herbs, as well. I now pronounce Christy Hill’s buffalo ribs and Telegramme soul-mates.
In addition to the beautiful dining room and deck, Christy Hill features the lakefront Sandbar with wine, cocktail and food specials, a garden setting, and in-table fire pits. Christy Hill is open nightly for dinner and reservations are recommended. For more information, call (530) 583-8551 or visit christyhill.com.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (advanced) Sommelier and wine educator specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
