By Lou Phillips
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“The NV Poema Brut Cava was dry, spicy and crisp with a beam of tangy orange that played perfectly with the bold flavors of this dish.”
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No better place to be on a sunny Tahoe day than the deck at Jake’s On the Lake in Tahoe City. The setting here fills the senses with truly panoramic lake and mountain views that are also on feature from most of the indoor tables.
Afternoons are perfect for small plates with a variety of flavors, colors and textures. An experience made even better with wonderful wine pairings. Assistant manager and Level 1 Sommelier Christina Perry proved to be an exceptional matchmaker as she led us on a food-wine adventure.
The 2013 Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay.
Leading off was the NV Poema Brut Cava, $8 a glass, to complement to the crispy-on-the-outside, rich-on-the-inside Dungeness Crab Cakes napped in a mustardy, lemon remoulade and crunchy fennel slaw. The sparkler was dry, spicy and crisp with a beam of tangy orange that played perfectly with the bold flavors of this dish.
Batting second was a feisty 2014 10 Span Pinot Gris from Monterey, $9 a glass, that was a combination of an Alsatian style with full body and rich stone fruit, and an high acid, fresh Italian version with a signature almond note. Way more complexity and excitement than you’d expect at this price. Perry matched a Quinoa Salad with arugula, kale, roasted beets and crunchy toasted pepitas in lemon vinaigrette that was as multi-faceted and delicious as the wine.
The 2014 10 Span Pinot Gris paired with Quinoa Salad, while the NV Poema Brut Cava was a match to the Dungeness Crab Cakes.
Third and fourth in the lineup was the power-hitting duo of the 2013 Textbook Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $14 a glass, and the flash-fried Ahi Poke Roll that was cut in to bite-sized pieces that were perfect for dipping into the chili soy sauce. This is a big wine with warm cherry pie and currant in abundance that both balanced and kicked up the richness and heat of the food. An unconventional pairing that proved absolutely brilliant.
Jake’s list is full of the familiar and adventurous with many selections less than $50 a bottle, and is especially strong in Pinot Noir with offerings from all the great AVAs on the West Coast. There are also big guns such as 2013 Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay at $96, 2012 Shafer One Point Five at $148, and 2011 Joseph Phelps Insignia for $295. There are also some intriguing, older bottlings like the 2005 Bremer Merlot at $64 and the 2008 JC Cellars Petite Sirah for $68.
Set sail for Jake’s at the Boatworks Mall at 780 North Lake Blvd. For reservations or for more information, call (530) 583-0188 or visit jakestahoe.com.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 Advanced Sommelier and his consulting business WineProwest.com assists in the selling, buying and managing wine collections. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or lou@wineprowest.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
