Just a short drive from Donner Summit sits the Loch Leven Lakes trail, where a 4-mile walk will bring you to the highest of the three Loch Leven Lakes. Each lake provides picturesque, rocky islands and granite-lined shores. Download Trail map for Loch Leven Lakes & Salmon Lake
Middle Loch Leven Lake with granite slope dropping into the water. | Tim Hauserman
While the lakes are certainly the highlight, the journey is also spectacularly beautiful. It’s a magical tromp past granite boulders, lush fern gardens and ridges blessed with majestic juniper and enormous Western white pines. The Loch Leven Lakes are on my to-do list to hike at least once a year.
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“It’s a magical tromp past granite boulders, lush fern
gardens and ridges blessed with majestic juniper
and enormous Western white pines.”
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Depending upon which lake you decide is best to rest your laurels, between 6 and 8 miles for a round trip doesn’t sound too difficult, but this little bugger seems to get harder and harder every year. I’ve been hiking this trail for 30 years and while the trail grade hasn’t changed, it’s still a moderate and steady ascent to the lakes, the trail condition has gone from smooth dirt, to eroded gullies of rocks and roots.
The reason for the change is obvious in the spring and early summer as water runs down the trail in many places, turning it into a shallow river and eroding away the dirt. In other words, bring sturdy shoes that you don’t mind getting wet, and assume it will take a bit longer then you might think. The good news is that the lakes are still just as beautiful as they were the first time I hiked this trail, they might be the best bits of wilderness this side of Desolation Wilderness, and no permits are required.
Lower Loch Leven Lake. | Tim Hauserman
The trail begins in a no-nonsense fashion. It has to, because the route is over a fairly steep slope of granite. It winds up and over granite slabs and into tiny gullies passing fern gardens and gnarly junipers who have somehow found purchase in a bit of dirt amongst the rock. Eventually, after a solid mile of ascent, the trail drops down to a creek crossing before climbing again to the Transcontinental railroad crossing. If you are a train lover like me, you can cross the tracks and sit on a flat rock on the other side where the trail resumes again, pretending your having a snack and taking a break when you are really hoping a train comes along.
Once you finally give up the dream that a train will arrive, you begin the switchbacking climb through forest with lots of little streams cascading in and across the trail. Now, you are walking over roots, rocks and a few downed trees to maneuver your way up to a saddle. Finally, the trail levels off, then gets smoother and quieter, as suddenly the sounds of Interstate 80 disappear. Soon you reach Lower Loch Leven Lake.
It’s a pretty little patch of water with a few granite islands, but fairly shallow and I believe your time is better spent by pressing on to Middle and Upper Loch Leven, which are larger, deeper and more enticing for a swim. Just a quarter mile past Lower, you reach Middle Loch Leven Lake. It’s long and narrow, with a host of small granite islands topped by bonsai trees. There are several warm slabs of granite reaching down to the lake, perfect for a quick skinny dip, followed by a long lie and dry on the warm rock. Once you’re on the granite and feel the warmth both below and above, you will discover your little bit of heaven.
To get to Upper Loch Leven, follow the trail around the lake. You cross an outlet stream then wonder through brush and over gullies to reach the upper lake in three-quarters of a mile. It’s worth the walk. Surrounded by granite, it has a nice, picturesque island in the middle just the right distance for a swim and lots of interesting boulders around to explore. And perhaps that extra distance will reduce the number of fellow explorers at this highest lake.
Continue to Salmon Lake
Not enough? Check out Salmon Lake. From Lower Loch Leven Lake, the Salmon Lake Trail heads generally downhill to the shallow lake. While not as beautiful as the three Loch Levens, it’s a pleasant place that sees less traffic. The highlight is the small catfish that can be seen in abundance. Catfish are not native to the Sierra and I’ve heard several possibilities for how they got there. Chinese Railroad workers looking to supplement their diet? Miners out chasing gold? Your guess is as good as mine.
The Loch Leven Trailhead is located about one-quarter mile west of Rainbow Lodge on Highway 40. Pit toilet facilities are available, but no water. From Truckee take Interstate 80 west to Big Bend Exit 168, about 10 miles west of Donner Summit. Then follow Highway 40 west about 1 mile to the trailhead.
For more information, visit fs.usda.gov.
