My first cross-country ski of the year is almost always a tour across Tahoe Meadows and up through the forest to Chickadee Ridge overlooking Lake Tahoe. The views are certainly spectacular, but the real reason this ski usually captures first place is because at 8,500 feet in elevation, it gets snow when it is still raining at lake level.
On Halloween morning, I headed up Mount Rose Highway from Incline Village to Tahoe Meadows. As I drove, there was little sign of snow and I began to get nervous that I would be using hiking boots instead of skis. I should have known better. While these fall storms invariably bring rain at lake level, 8,000 feet seems to be the magic number at which rain turns into blankets of snow. Sure enough, as soon as I reached that elevation I entered a world of white.
The snow was not deep, probably 6 inches had fallen the night before. I was glad I had brought my October skis, which have scraped across hundreds of rocks and branches over the years. But rocks didn’t phase me, I was out on snow, slowly gliding through the stark whiteness, with bright blue sky popping above the mountains.
From the car, I headed into the trees on the edge of the meadow where the shade kept the snow cool. Sometimes the snow was powdery, sometimes breakable crust, but always it was a joy to again be moving through snow. I had the place pretty much to myself. There were a few other tracks and a car or two along the road, but most of the time the only tracks I could see were mine.
“I climbed through the trees, stopping to listen to the chickadees chirping in the lodgepole pines. Once I reached the top of their namesake ridge, I found a distant view of Lake Tahoe and Freel Peak.”
I climbed through the trees, stopping to listen to the chickadees chirping in the lodgepole pines. Once I reached the top of their namesake ridge, I found a distant view of Lake Tahoe and Freel Peak, which sits above the lake’s southern fringe. The impossibly bright sky and swiftly leaving remnants of the previous night’s storm were certainly a beautiful addition to the shimmering surface of Lake Tahoe. The whitebark pines that stood proudly all around me, however, were equally awesome. Their thick coats of snow and hoarfrost gave them a mysterious and ghostly demeanor, a perfect fit for the last day of October.
Coming back down the slope on touring skis with little coverage is always a bit nerve wracking. I was curious when a rock or stump was going to reach out and say hello. I made a series of long traverses back to the flatter sections in the trees where I was presented with several options: glide over to the open meadow then head downstream toward the backside of Slide Mountain, wander around some more in the powder in the trees or return to the car.
Being the first ski of the year, I chose the car. I’d spent a nice hour and a half tromping through the trees, got my ski legs back and found exultation in the white stuff. It turned out to be a good decision because on the way back the sunny spots brought my skis to a screeching halt as several inches of snow caked to the base.
Hey, it was October. I was happy to be able to ski — and next time, I will bring some wax.
Exploring Tahoe Meadows
From Incline Village, it is about 7.5 miles up State Route 431 to Tahoe Meadows. There is parking on the right side of the road just as you reach the meadow. From the car, I headed into the trees on the south side. You can also ski out from the north side of the highway down the old road to Incline Lake for good touring. The north side of the highway allows snowmobiles.
The Mount Rose area is also excellent for back-country downhill skiing. Most skiers choose to ski into the higher slopes around Tamarack Peak on the north side of the highway. Back-country skiing in the area on steeper slopes should not be attempted without avalanche knowledge. Bring a buddy who has the skied the area before if this is your first trip out.
This area attracts skiers, snowshoers, sledders, hikers and snowmobilers. Be advised that hiking or snowshoeing over ski tracks makes for a less enjoyable experience for skiers, especially on slopes. Blaze your own trail instead.
