From a wine-grape-growing standpoint, California is blessed with having a variety of climates, soils and water sources from which to cultivate exceptional fruit for almost any type of wine varietal. And, the state’s artisans and producers make some of the best Cabernets, Chardonnays and Pinots in the world.
The juice spends time in barrel, skips malolactic fermentation to retain acidity and is bottled unfiltered. This all adds up to complex delicious juice that
also ages gracefully.
However, there have been wine skeletons in the closets and until recently, Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé have had the most. With both wines, the problem started with the bottom line because wine consumers the world over have been unwilling to buy at price points that would allow producers to allocate the resources necessary to make great versions. These low prices were encouraged by the boatloads of cheap Spanish Rosé that started in the 1960s. Sauvignon Blanc has underperformed compared to foreign competition.
The producers are not without blame; they have cut every corner imaginable such as growing the fruit for these wines on the cheapest and least appropriate land, over cropping and employing the quickest, cheapest winemaking. It is a case of which came first, the chicken or the egg.
So what has changed? Well, for starters the world discovered the dry Rosés of Provence and the revolutionary Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand and France. Sauvignon Blanc also benefitted from the meteoric rise in the price of quality Chardonnay, which left a nice niche where producers could now allocate top vineyard, viticulture and winemaking resources into their Sauvignon Blancs and remain profitable.
Both categories are still relative bargains; quality versions start at $10 and star versions can be had for around $25. Here are some top performers:
Rodney Strong Vineyards dedicated one of its estate vineyards in Northern Sonoma, Charlotte’s Home, for the fruit that makes its balanced tropical-fruit-forward summer sipper of a Sauvignon Blanc.
In Russian River Valley, Davis Bynum creates its Virginia’s Block-Jane’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc from a prime vineyard. The juice spends time in barrel, skips malolactic fermentation to retain acidity and is bottled unfiltered. This all adds up to complex delicious juice that also ages gracefully.
Rosés from California have been a mishmash of grapes and winemaking styles, but the quality movement has been focused on Pinot Noir and Rhone-grape blends. Another winner from Rodney Strong is its 2017 Rosé of Pinot Noir made from 100 percent Pinot Noir that is a potpourri of dry strawberry and rose petals — it needs to be on your summer wine list. By the way, this beauty just received a 92-point score from Wine Enthusiast.
Delivering a little more structure, spice and oomph is David Ramey’s Sidebar Rosé, Russian River Valley, which is 100 percent Syrah. This is a Rosé that will pair perfectly with grilled meats or vegetables.
As always ask your wine-shop gurus for their top picks, as well.
