Winter adventures in the Lost Sierra

Snowshoeing at Lake Davis with Michelle Allen. Katherine E. Hill

My inquisitive nature coupled with the need to explore is likely how I ended up in a career in journalism and eventually led to putting down roots in my adopted home of Tahoe.

The pandemic quelled nearly all my exploring. Add to that the mounting personal stress of isolation from so many family and friends along with the added burden of trying to keep a magazine going during extreme business conditions. I was exhausted last spring and in need of a break from it all.

The Lost Sierra provided me with that refuge. Not only is it one of the most beautiful locations in the region, but it’s rural nature means they receive few visitors in the winter. It was the perfect location for a getaway during the height of the pandemic with my sister, who was also exhausted and into a year of virtual school with her then 8-year-old son.

We loaded the car with our cross-country and snowshoe gear and headed north along Highway 89. Almost as soon as I crossed Sagehen Creek I felt a weight lift.

Towering forests abound along the drive north winding toward the Sierra Valley, past Kyburz Flat and the turn offs for Webber Lake and Jackson Meadows (all great outings in themselves).

Turning left to follow Highway 89 around Sierra Valley – the largest alpine valley in the Sierra Nevada – we took in the breathtaking scenery as we drove past ranches and farms. Our destination was Nakoma Resort, some of the only lodging open in the region in the winter.

We’d stayed at Nakoma Resort before and have enjoyed the tranquil setting and comfortable accommodations.

After checking in, we headed to The Peak – a wine, beer and cigar bar in Graeagle – for beers outside on the lawn and then ordered food from the Middle Fork Bistro at Nakoma to take back to our rooms.

Cross-country skiing

Our destination for the trip was cross-country skiing at Plumas-Eureka State Park, an old gold mining location that is now a favorite spot for camping and hiking in the summer.

We parked at the park’s main entrance (closed for the winter) and started our trek along the little-known trail system. The Plumas-Eureka Trail meanders past the campground through the forest. It was serene. We only saw four other skiers that day.

As we skied, I could hear and later see Jamison Creek flowing below the trail. As the trail emerged from the trees it opened to an expansive view of Mount Washington and Eureka Peak. I stood for a while admiring the view and taking in the peace it brought into my soul.

We turned around where the trail meets the Upper Campground open in the summer to head back. I walked around the historic mining buildings planning to return another time with my nephew and located the donation box at the park office and left $20.


Visit

Lake Davis Recreation Area | fs.usda.gov3

Lost Sierra Chamber of Commerce | lostsierrachamber.org

Plumas-Eureka State Park | parks.ca.gov

Plumas-Eureka State Park Association | plumas-eureka.org

Plumas Ski Club | plumasskiclub.org


Volunteers with the Plumas-Eureka State Park Association groom the trail system, but snow has been scant recently. Unless more snow arrives, I recommend planning to snowshoe through the park, but please stay off the groomed trails.

We decided afterward to drive through Johnsville and head up to the Johnsville Historic Ski Bowl, where the Plumas Ski Club holds longboard races in the winter and hopes to reopen the ski area one day. The next race is March 20.

We grabbed coffee and a bite to eat at Mill Works Deli & Bakery in Graeagle and drove over to Portola to check the conditions at Lake Davis Recreation Area.

I was gobsmacked as the ice-covered lake came into view set against the last rays of sunlight on a brilliant winter day. We decided to return the next day to snowshoe along the shoreline.

We enjoyed dinner again at the Middle Fork Bistro deciding this time to dine inside next to the fireplace as we were the only ones there.

Snowshoeing at Lake Davis

After checking out the next morning, we drove back to Lake Davis. We took Grizzly Road toward the northeast shore of the lake and drove to the end of the plowed road. We began our trek through a campground open in the summer toward the shore.

It was another brilliant blue winter day and we snowshoed along the shore heading north, stopping often to take in the scenery. The only sound was the cracking of the ice on the lake as it warmed under the sun’s rays. Other than a few people ice fishing, we had the place to ourselves. We enjoyed snowshoeing until it was time to head home.

We warmed up with drinks from Nichole’s Coffee Depot in Portola and headed toward Sierraville stopping for lunch outside at Los Dos Hermanos to end our perfect two days in the Lost Sierra.