By Lou Phillips ·
Given the rustic Western vibe of commercial row in Truckee, you would have no idea that a visit to Tuscany is just a step through the doorway of Restaurant Pianeta. From the sight of the Tuscan cellar motif, to the aromas of creative Italian fare wafting through the room, you are transported to Italy. Owners Nicole and Tom Beckering have been the gracious hosts greeting you at the door and from behind the bar for more than 10 years. They inspire fun fine-dining with a casual vibe.
Prosecco is the official good times bubbly of Italy often comes in an off-dry form such as the yummy Garbel ($12 by the glass). White peach and apples spring on the palate, and the touch of sweetness is perfect to balance the bold spice (cayenne, paprika, lemon and garlic) that marry with Dungeness crab cakes, fennel root and arugula salad in Fritelle di Granchio.
The 2012 Monte Tondo Soave Classico ($11 for the glass) shows off with notes of almond and pear, and displays the acid and minerality that makes Italian wines so harmonious with food. Food like the Insalata Robyn (named for co-owner Robyn Sills). It is a vibrant salad featuring spinach, butter lettuce, radishes, gorgonzola cheese and olives in a Tuscan vinaigrette.
The 2012 Paolo Scavino Barbera D’Alba from Piedmont ($48 for the bottle) offers up bright berry fruit, spice and an earthiness that marries nicely with the cornucopia of mushrooms in Pasta di Olio. This angel hair dish is brightened by tomatoes and spinach and topped with Reggiano , basil, pine nuts and sausage.
Revered by enophiles for its 100 percent Sangiovese wines, Brunello di Montalcino in its classic form offers dark cherries, smoky notes and fine tannins. The 2008 from Casanova di Neri, a star producer in Montalcino, is a beautiful match for the lamb (agnello) served with mint pesto, ravioli and mushrooms, and at $100 a bottle is fairly priced.
With more than 100 selections this list says, “Let’s celebrate Italy.” While certainly not ignoring American wines (the list is about half and half),Tom has put together a virtual tour of Italy from the vibrant whites of the Alto Adige in the northeast, through Piedmont (featuring mighty Barolos and Barbarescos), cruising to Tuscany for classic Sangiovese-based wines, and down into Campania for rich Aglianicos.
The Beckerings are proud to offer a balance of more food-focused Italian wines and generous California classics. Let Tom, Nicole or any of the knowledgeable staff guide you, and you’re on your way.
Pianeta is located at 10096 Donner Pass Road in Truckee. For more information or for dinner reservations , call (530) 587-4694
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 Sommelier and wine educator, who specializes in guiding clients in buying or selling wine collections. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com.
