By Lou Phillips
The River Grill
Across from Fanny Bridge in Tahoe City lies the River Grill, where an up-and-coming wine program matches its seasonal food menu. In warmer months, there is great al-fresco dining on the deck. Inside, you will find an inviting bar and dining area offering serene views of the Truckee River.
A great way of starting your experience here is enjoying a half bottle of 2012 Pride Viognier for $29. Pride Winery is on a mountaintop that spans Napa and Sonoma, and those cool mountain nights add a structural backbone that really complements the apricot and honeysuckle you’ll get on both the nose and palate. The wine is wonderful alone, but would match well with one of the spicier appetizers, such as the pepper-seared sashimi.
Featured wines at River Grill.
David Ramey is an iconic winemaker and his 2011 Ramey Sonoma Coast Chardonnay at $57 for the bottle, brings the mineral and acidity that marry so well with Chardonnay’s voluptuousness. This wine has lovely oak qualities such as creamy vanilla and cinnamon. Due to the Sonoma Coast source there also is real freshness, think just-ripe orchard and tropical fruits. It would make a great tablemate with the butternut squash bisque.
The 2010 Penner-Ash Willamette Pinot Noir is $77 by the bottle with a medium garnet color that explodes with dark red and purple fruits, mixed with some forest floor earth and chocolate; a complex wine that is just coming into its own. This wine could dance with so many entrees here, but would really shine with the braised lamb shank with demi-glace and mushrooms.
Server Matt Grathwell shows off wines and the dining room.
The 2010 Cain Concept is a Cabernet Blend from Napa for $86. This is a big, bold wine with substantial integrated tannins. Ask for a decant and you will be rewarded with coffee and cocoa notes that play well with the classic black fruit profile. Again, many possible matches here including the short ribs, venison tenderloin or beef filet.
There also are great by-the-glass choices that let you make your own pairings. On the white wine side, you can select from bubbles in the form of Segura Vidas Cava for $7 for a split to Rieslings and Pinot Grigios, to fan favorite Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. Available reds by the glass run the gamut from Pinots such as 2012 Morgan 12 Clones for $12 to the 2010 Ottimino Zinfandel for $10, as well as some nice Cabernets and Rhone varietals. With pricing from $22 to $200+, there are options for everyone.
The River Grill’s ongoing staff wine training ensures you there will be a knowledgeable server who can guide you on the wine side. For more information, visit rivergrilltahoe.com or call (530) 581-2644. And tell ‘em Tahoe Weekly sent you.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (Advanced) Sommelier specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com.
