By Lou Phillips ·
Charlie Soule’s story: Lifelong Tahoe resident kicks around local restaurants to make some cake as a kid. Leaves for college, but realizes his heart will always be at the North Shore. Returns home, resumes restaurant work, and then something funny happens. He puts together Mom’s 50th birthday gala and his uncle has an epiphany, “This kid’s got chops.” A phone conversation ensues, followed by meetings and in 1985, The Soule Domain is born.
Fast forward 30 years and Charlie still tend the fires while his brother, Steven, leads the front of the house. The kitchen philosophy started as French, moved to Pan-Asian and now the Soule’s mantra is; “A New Era: Buy Local, Cook Global, Eat Universal.”
Sparkling wine such as the Roederer from Anderson Valley for $9 by the glass has the fruit and structure to start the party with Charlie’s aromatic and bold appetizers, such as the Lobster Wontons in shitake broth, Chinese mustard and red chili dip.
Jackson Keys 2013 Mendocino Sauvignon Blanc at $8 by the glass brings fresh notes of citrus and sweet grass, and just sings with the Spinach Salad with pears and goat cheese.
Pinot Noir is perhaps the world’s most flexible food wine and the 2013 Lumen Santa Maria Valley at $44 for the bottle proves the point. It is at once savory, full of fruit and has a real brightness. Just what it needs to pair with the Vegan Sauté featuring a myriad of vegetables, nuts, seeds and tofu in a spicy Teriyaki sauce.
The year 2004 is one of the great vintages in Tuscany, and the 2004 La Fornace Brunello di Montalcino at $75 for the bottle is just coming into its prime drinking window. Brunello screams for roasted pork and The Soule’s Tenderloin with Herbs and Balsamic.
The wine program focuses on producers from cooler growing regions that are known for a lighter hand in their wine making. Cabernets are almost all from high-elevation producers, Pinots and Chardonnays from windy, foggy valleys, and imports from high latitude or mountainous regions.
If you are a fan of big and bold, don’t despair, order a bottle of 2011 Martellotto Chardonnay for $42, the 2013 Belle Glos Pinot Noir at $62, the 2012 Cedarville Zin for $40 or let your server know your preferences.
Also of note is the Soule-ful pricing, with most wines not much more than store retail.
The Soule Domain is located at 9983 Cove Street in Kings Beach. For more information, visit souledomain.com or call (530) 546-7529.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (advanced) Sommelier and wine educator specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more Wine Time columns.
