By Lou Phillips ·
George Booras proudly shows off his Wall of Wine ·
As anyone who has spent time in Chicago will tell you, the wine and dine scene in The Windy City is built on big wines and bigger steaks. What would it look and taste like if the Chi-town steakhouse met North Lake Tahoe’s vistas and casual atmosphere? Well, thanks to Old Range Steakhouse proprietor George Booras, we do know and it’s something special.
Booras serves bold and generous wines, that he compliments with large meals featuring prime-aged Midwestern beef and fresh seafood.
OK, this is a first for this writer and wine fan. No wine list, as in none at all. Instead, as you are greeted and guided to your lake view table or booth, you pass George’s Wall of Wine. All the bottles are right here to view, draped with tree-shaped neck tags displaying prices. As is befitting such hearty fare, the selection is full of bold wines with a dedication to small artisan producers. There is also attractive pricing across the board.
A great start on a warm summer evening is the 2011 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc at $49 a bottle, matched with the Hearts of Palm Salad over Seasonal Greens dusted with slivered almonds. Adding to the experience, and as with all the salads here, this is served on a spectacular chilled pewter platter.
Old Range specializes in Fresh Alaskan King Crab Legs and for a pairing that can mean only one thing – Chardonnay. The 2013 Neyers Sonoma version is rich and crisp with a spicy edge and a squeeze of lemon that complements the decadent crustaceans.
Now, in the Old Range Spirit, let’s go big. Tres Sabores’ 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, $65 a bottle, is a deeply colored structured wine with loads of dark berries, black currants, smoky spicy oak notes and stout tannins. All the better to stand tall with one of the huge Rib Eyes showcasing Old Range’s heavy aged, prime mid-Western beef seared to perfection.
Another dynamic duo is the 2010 Easton Zinfandel from Amador, $54 a bottle. This Zin erupts from the glass with black plumb, dark cherries and pepper notes that all add up to a perfect match for the Giant Iowa Pork Chops served with an apple and calvados sauce.
The Old Range Steakhouse brings Midwestern hospitality, bold wines at a fair price, and platefuls of Turf and Surf that satisfy. So head over to 7081 N. Lake Tahoe Blvd. in Tahoe Vista and enjoy an evening of Chicago steakhouse dining Tahoe-style. Reservations are recommended and may be made by calling (530) 546-4800.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (advanced) Sommelier and wine educator specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
