By Lou Phillips ·
Chic and friendly, trendy and classic, are word pairs that rarely jibe. However, one visit to Pianeta in Truckee and you’ll know those words can complement like a good wine and food pairing.
It is a challenge to maintain excellence in the restaurant business anywhere, but in a seasonal resort town perhaps even more so. Yet, year after year owners and managers Tom and Nicole Beckering offer the best in wine, food and service. It probably helps that they are wonderful people and accomplished restaurateurs, but I think the real secret is that they care. Not only about offering hand-selected wines at all price points and authentic creative cuisine, but also about their guests and staff, which in turn are raving fans.
Since my last visit, Tom has upped the emphasis on Italian wines with the goal of more closely matching Pianeta’s cuisine. He also has a knack for knowing the wines that diners will love, making this one list where you can’t go wrong
The 2013 Marco Porello Roero Arneis, $11 a glass, comes from near Barolo, Italy, and with its boldness and complexity many see it as the White Barolo. Aromatic, fresh and balanced, the Marco Porello brings peaches, white flowers and a wonderful minerality that sings with the fresh clams in wine broth vongole.
One of Napa’s finest Sauvignon Blancs is Orin Swift Cellars’ Veladora. A richer style SB, the 2013 version, $54 a bottle, has the citrus, melon and sweet spices you’d expect, but adds voluptuousness rarely felt with this varietal. A SB for Chardonnay lovers? Rich seafood is the call here with the crispy crab cakes with red pepper coulis fitting the bill nicely.
Dolcetto is a spicy, berry-flavored wine from Piedmonte usually displaying a little tannin, as well. The 2011 Abbona, $32 a bottle, matches that profile to a tee. Dolcetto is traditionally enjoyed with charcuterie and Pianeta’s antipasto misto with cured meats and roasted vegetables would make a Piedmontese grandmother proud.
One of Italy’s most distinctive red wines is Amarone, which is made from partially dried grapes that create a smoky, intense blockbuster. Masi Costasera is a master Amarone producer and Tom must have stolen some because he has their Amarone 2009 Classico version for only $86 a bottle. This Italian classic and Pianeta’s pork medallions in port sauce cry for each other.
Pianeta is open nightly for dinner at 5:30 p.m., with the bar open at 5. For more information or to make a reservation, call (530) 587-4694 or visit pianetarestauranttruckee.com.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 (advanced) Sommelier and wine educator specializing in advising private collectors and businesses. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or wineguru123@gmail.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
