By Lou Phillips
[dropcap1]T[/dropcap1]his may be the golden age for visiting the scenic Sierra Foothills wine region as the quality is improving at a rapid rate and prices are still a relative bargain compared to Napa and Sonoma. This is the first in a series featuring wineries from this and other regions, with both great juice and interesting stories.
Founded by Scottish miner James Skinner in the 1860s, RES Cellars thrived until the early 1900s. Descendants had no knowledge of the winery until 2006 when a couple of the modern Skinner Clan were returning from a Tahoe trip and noticed the name Skinner on an old roadside map. With their interest piqued, they detoured to the location near Somerset and discovered their lost family history in the Sierra and in wine. Within a year, Mike and Carey Skinner jumped in with both feet and Skinner Vineyards was born.
Ryan and Shannon Skinner
Winemaker Chris Pittenger brings a depth of knowledge from his time at Marcassin and Williams-Selyem wineries, and crafts earthy, sophisticated reds and bright, rich whites from traditional Rhone grapes.
Not to be outdone by the wines, the winery has spectacular vistas, a tasting room crafted of wood and stone, and a staff that is both warm and knowledgeable.
Located in the Fairplay AVA, which has the highest average elevation in the U.S., Skinner’s vineyards are mainly decomposed granite and red volcanic clay making them similar to the Rhone region in France.
Rhone reds are considered the world-standard for Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre wines, but Pittenger’s creations rival France’s finest. Cuvee Eighteen Sixty-One blends these grapes for a wine that pours purple-black in the glass, and on the nose and palate brings smoky berries and cherries spiced with licorice, iron and herbs. The finish goes on and on. At $30 for the bottle, this is a find.
On the white side, the 2012 Seven Generations mingles Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul that make for a full-bodied wine with stone fruits, clover-honey and citrus that is delicious now, but will gain complexity with a few years in the cellar. This is another wine that over delivers at $26 a bottle.
Skinner also produces distinctive and complex single varietal wines from these grapes, plus Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, that range from $18 to $60 per bottle. We tried them all and there was not a disappointment in the bunch.
Located at 8054 Fairplay Road in Somerset and open Thursday to Monday, Skinner Vineyards has a wonderful family story, close proximity to Lake Tahoe, a friendly visitor experience, and is a prime example of why the Sierra Foothills has long been a favorite destination for local fans of the grape. For more information, visit skinnervineyards.com.
Lou Phillips is a Level 3 Advanced Sommelier and his consulting business WineProwest.com assists in the selling, buying and managing wine collections. He may be reached at (775) 544-3435 or lou@wineprowest.com. Visit TheTahoeWeekly.com for more wine columns.
