Subtle hints of yellow-tinged leaves and pops of orange on a distant mountainside beckon me each fall to get out and explore the Tahoe Sierra. Fall colors are fleeting, lasting only a few short weeks, if we’re lucky, before disappearing for another year, which feeds my excitement and anxiousness to get out and explore before it’s gone.
Fall colors are fleeting, lasting only a few short weeks, if we’re lucky, before disappearing for another year, which feeds by excitement and anxiousness to get out and explore before it’s gone.
I recall seasons where the colors changed and within days were gone and others when the fall color lingered for more than a month. No matter how long they last, they are a gift to look forward to and relish, taking in as much of it as I can.
My favorite place to visit each fall is Hope Valley and the surrounding areas. Located only about 30 minutes from South Lake Tahoe, it feels like a world way.
In late September, I luxuriated in a midweek trip to the newly renovated Wylder Hope Valley, formerly Sorensen’s Resort, to indulge in my fall obsession and enjoy a respite from the daily grind of running a small business during a pandemic. I invited my sister Michelle Allen, and my 7-year-old nephew Anikin to join me. Both also needed a break from the pandemonium the pandemic has wrought on our lives, our work, our homes and school.
We followed Highway 89 down the West Shore of Lake Tahoe from our homes on the North Shore toward the South Shore, catching tiny glimpses of color along the route. As we made the turn outside Meyers to continue on Highway 89, my excitement intensified. The climb over Luther Pass brings with it more stands of color in the distance until we catch the first sight of Hope Valley below. The colors had just started to emerge, but in the distance we could see it – pockets of yellow aspens along the West Fork of the Carson River and stands of orange along Highway 88.
We arrived at Picketts Junction – the intersections of Highways 88 and 89 – and decided to head to Markleeville about 12 miles away for lunch. Continue to follow Highway 88 and enjoy splashes of fall colors, turning at the Woodfords junction on Highway 89 to reach Markleeville, the small hamlet full of history.
Markleeville
Our first stop was the Alpine County Chamber of Commerce where I chatted with executive director Becky DeForest for some tips on places to explore and she told me about their Fall Photo Contest, the Historical Walking Tour and the county’s recent rating as the No. 1 spot for the most disc golf courses per capita – Turtle Rock Park in Markleeville, Kirkwood and Bear Valley.
We headed out to check out some of the historic stops in town including the Alpine County Museum overlooking the town. While the museum remains closed, the complex is worth stopping by to see the Old Webster School (1882) and peer into the historic log jail (1875) with its thick iron bars and door. Anikin was impressed by the iron bars stating that no one could possibly break out of that jail, but he was even more impressed by an old outhouse on the edge of the complex he declared must be at least 100 years old.
By this time, we were famished and headed to the newly opened Cutthroat Brewing Company for lunch. We sat outside on their deck, ordered a beer and a hard kombucha and dove into the Pickle Fries when they arrived. I enjoyed the Forager Salad, while Michelle ordered the Mahi Mahi Fish Tacos with a cheese pizza for Anikin. The food was delicious and fresh and is worth the drive itself.
Snowshoe Thompson Cave
Heading back toward Wylder to check in we stopped along Highway 88 at the trail for Snowshoe Thompson Cave. We had been talking all day in the car about Snowshoe Thompson, the legendary mail carrier who crossed the Sierra 180 miles roundtrip on skis to carry the mail from Genoa, Nev., to Placerville from 1856 to 1876.
There’s no sign along the road for the trailhead, but my Apple Map app worked great and directed us to the turn into a large dirt parking area on the northwest side of the road. The half-mile roundtrip trail begins just beyond the interpretive sign in the parking lot. Follow the trail behind the sign and cross the small creek to the left next to a large boulder. From there, look for the yellow and white California Trail markers in the trees to follow the trail. Look up in the trees; the markers are placed high enough to account for snow.
We put Anikin in charge of finding the markers and leading us to the cave, one of his favorite things to explore. Within 10 minutes, we arrived at the entrance and Anikin eagerly scrambled over the boulders to get inside the small cave where he imagined what it would have been like to shelter in the cave during a winter storm as Thompson is said to have done.
The afternoon was waning by this time, so we headed to Wylder Hope Valley for our stay.
Wylder Hope Valley
Nestled along the West Fork of the Carson is the historic resort now known as Wylder Hope Valley. Opened in 1926, Wylder has renovated and upgraded the cabins and grounds of the resort, including adding a deck outside the popular Sorensen’s Café. What’s changed is upgrades to the interiors making them comfy, cozy, efficient and inviting as they seemingly have thought of a guest’s every need, what hasn’t changed are the quaint cabins nestled along a babbling brook situated between stands of Aspens with hammocks, swings and chairs placed to enjoy the best views.
We stayed in the Sierra House surrounded by a forest of Aspens, boulders great for climbing according to Anikin, and the brook. After exploring the newly renovated Sierra House, we set out to explore the grounds. Trails meander throughout the property inviting guests to explore, which is just what we did finding chairs to enjoy the views, a swing set crafted from logs and a viewing deck near the top of the property.
Dinner was calling and we made the short walk to Sorensen’s Café, which we had been looking forward to all day. The restaurant is a local favorite with a selection of hearty fare. We relished our meals of Chicken Marsala and an Eggplant Napoleon on the outside deck, with butter pasta for Anikin, enjoying the views of yellow Aspens at sunset. We topped off the day with a Brownie Sundae and ice cream for Anikin, a reward for finishing his schoolwork during dinner.
The next morning, I arose early as I always do and set out with my coffee to enjoy the morning light on the fall colors and explore Popo’s Trail, which connects the cabins to Wylder’s nearby campground with tent and RV sites, a vintage Spartan camper and seven yurts.
After my morning outing, we headed down to the cafe for a hearty breakfast to start the day and conclude our trip. Before leaving, general manager Annelle Kapp gave us a tour of a couple of the yurts at the campground. The yurts are as nicely appointed as the cabins with wood stoves and comfy accommodations.
Kapp also told us the Wyler is taking over operations at Hope Valley Cross County at Picketts Junction and will be offering snowshoe and cross-country ski rentals, as well as possibly snowmobiling.
Our 24 hours in Hope Valley was satisfying for the mind and soul and we were sorry to leave Wylder’s, half-joking that we should stay for a week. We headed out to explore the fall colors emerging along Blue Lakes Road off Highway 88 before we pointed the car north back to school and work.
Wylder Hope Valley is open year-round, with the campground open until around Oct. 19 this year. Reservations are available online and dinner reservations are recommended for Sorensen’s Café. | wylderhotels.com/hope-valley, alpinecounty.com
