You might not find Chicago Park on your GPS, so try Grass Valley instead.
But Montoliva Vineyard & Winery is there in Chicago Park, which has a long history of Italian immigrants. It’s worth the rambling drive past the general store to visit this winery, talk to fervent winemaker Mark Henry, and get to know this part of Nevada County.
Henry is a champion of growing Italian varietals in this part of the Sierra Foothills. He was one of the first to plant two important varietals here: the much-lauded clones of Sangiovese that were introduced to the U.S. by Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo in 2001, and Aglianico, an important grape from southern Italy. These were wise choices, as Chicago Park is at 2,200 feet elevation on the western slope of the Sierra Foothills with warm summers, cool evenings and soils of decomposed granite.
“I think that Italian varietals grown in this part of the Sierra Foothills are perfect for Old World winemaking styles that result in lean and powerful wines with a subtle front-end, earthiness in the mid-palate, and a soft and lingering finish,” Henry says.
“I think that Italian varietals grown in this part of the Sierra Foothills are perfect for Old World winemaking styles.”
–Mark Henry
When I first visited Montoliva in 2009, it was a garagiste winery. Production was a mere 350 cases. Now at 1,500 to 2,000 cases (depending on yield of vineyards yearly), he focuses his 11 wines on eight Italian varietals from central southern Italy that he grows himself or sources nearby. He is thrilled to source grapes from a high-quality Sierra Foothills organic producer of intense Pinot Grigio grown at 3,300 feet elevation, and he has found a grower in the delta near Sacramento that produces Nebbiolo and Teroldego that meets his exacting specifications. Some great Dolcetto comes his way from time to time, and he procures that quickly for vinifying into a tasty, lively, snappy, summertime wine.
His practice of planting vines close together as is done in Italy gives him a bountiful harvest. Montoliva believes in sustainable agriculture with no pesticide use and drip irrigation that is highly regulated. Grape skins and stems are composted and returned to the vineyard.
You’ll enjoy your tasting at Montoliva for many reasons, but perhaps in part because of the continuing garagiste feeling of this winery.
The Tasting Room is open on weekends at the winery at 15629 Mount Olive Road, Chicago Park. Cell coverage is limited get directions before visiting. | (530) 346-6577, montoliva.com
Editor’s Note: This is an excerpt from the second edition of the popular guidebook “Wineries of the Sierra Foothills: Risk-Takers & Rule-Breakers” available on Amazon. All sales support Tahoe Weekly.
