By Chef David “Smitty” ·
In my last article, I talked about broth soups and chowder (visit TheTahoeWeekly.com to read the article). With the cream soups, the group that I didn’t get to in the last edition, there can be room to add to the menu, such as a grilled cheese sandwich. This group is the most versatile because it is lighter and can be as good cold as hot. And, just because it’s called a cream soup doesn’t mean there is any cream in it.
Cream may certainly be added to any of these soups to add body and richness, but it is the blending that gives it its name. In fact, most restaurants will call it a puree, such as a broccoli puree, rather than cream of broccoli soup.
If I’m making a soup using harder vegetables like broccoli or cauliflower, I’ll keep some flowerets to add at the end for garnish and a little crunch. I do like to give the flowerets a quick blanching, immediately cooling them completely as I did with the rice and noodles in the last article, and then adding them before serving.
I start a cream or puree the same way as I started the broth soup, by sautéing the onions and garlic in butter on medium high heat. The only time I don’t use onions and garlic is if the puree is something with a delicate flavor that would get overpowered, such as asparagus. I’ll add the veggies I’m using according to hardness just as I did with the broth soup, letting them sauté until they start to soften.
When it comes to cream soups, I try to keep it simple, and keep it to the vegetable in the name of the puree, such as broccoli puree or cauliflower puree rather than broccoli, cauliflower, carrot and celery puree. To me, it’s either all as in vegetable puree or one or two things such as broccoli puree or zucchini roasted red pepper puree. Too many ingredients and you’re not going to discern the different flavors. I like those flavors to stand out, but in a way that they complement each other.
Once the vegetables start to soften, add the potatoes (I like peeled reds) and let them sauté for a few minutes. Once they start to soften, add the stock and bring to a boil, and then turn down to a low simmer.
Once everything is cooked, it’s time to puree. Take your time. Do not fill the blender more than a third full, especially on the first batch until you see how much it expands. Once the blender is a third full, use a rag or towel to hold the lid on securely and give it a pulse or two before turning it to full blend. I’ve seen more messes and burns from blending soup in too big of batches than you can believe.
Once the soup is pureed, I’ll add any fresh herbs and seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. You will notice that besides having no cream, I didn’t use any roux to thicken it, relying on the potatoes to do that instead. All that’s left now is to add the flowerets and any other garnish. Enjoy.
Smitty is a personal chef specializing in dinner parties, cooking classes and special events. Trained under Master Chef Anton Flory at Top Notch Resort in Stowe, Vt., Smitty is known for his creative use of fresh ingredients. To read archived copies of Stir it Up, visit chefsmitty.com or TheTahoeWeekly.com. Contact him at smitty@chefsmitty.com or (530) 412-3598.
