Hanging out with a few of my friends recently, I was asked about articles and what was coming out, as well as some recent ones already published.
When the demi article came up, we started talking about it and one of the guys, who is also a chef, called me out on it. He told me that mine was not really a true demi and I guess in a technical way he’s right, but at the same time in another way, so am I. At any rate, I want to set the record straight as to why I do it the way I do.
Technically speaking, demi means half. For the sauce in question, it is reduced by half, so in that manner, I am correct in calling it a demi. A true demi glace, according to cooking rules or whatever you want to call them, is made by combing half brown stock with half Española sauce. The brown stock is the liquid you end up with after placing the roasted bones and veggies in the stock pot, covering with water and reducing to your desired concentration level. I reduce mine by half, but you can stop earlier for a little less intense flavor.
Making an Española sauce
The Española sauce is made by browning more of the carrots, onions and celery in butter, adding flour to create a roux, then adding your stock while whisking hard to avoid lumps. Add some tomato puree, a few peppercorns, and some thyme, parsley and a bay leaf to the sauce and let it slowly reduce by about one-third. You will want to strain this through a fine strainer and a piece of cheese cloth.
So what is the main difference between using an Española sauce and doing a straight reduction? Basically, the thickening with roux is left out in my version. All the other ingredients are still there. Yes, there is a little more tomato puree added that may add a little more tomato flavor, but in essence, the difference boils down to thickening half of your demi with roux; and oh yes, another round of cooking and pots and pans to clean.
Handling gluten problems
Also, how many people these days have a gluten problem? By adding flour to your sauce, you effectively end up with a sauce that some of your intended guests may not be able to enjoy. I prefer to thicken the sauces I use the demi for at the end as needed with cornstarch. This will result in a much darker and clearer sauce than one with roux, which I think also looks better on the plate.
In the end, it comes down to personal preference. Yes, in the old days, there were rules of cooking that you were expected to follow. If I had to take a test again, I would probably use an Española sauce, especially if the tester was older and looked French.
Escoffier might roll over in his grave with the omission of roux, but as I so often say: “There are no rules in cooking.” To me, if you are going to spend that much time making something, you might as well make it so the most people possible can enjoy it.
Modifying the demi glace
Here are a few other reasons I do certain things when making a demi. I try not to use the celery leaves because if you try one, they can be bitter and that will get imparted in your end flavor. I will use some onion peel because it adds some nice, dark brown coloring, but I will only use a little because it, too, will be bitter. Lastly, the reason I want to rub the tomato paste on the bones and not just add it into the whole mix is because the acid of the tomato will help break down the marrow, giving you that nice gelatinous end result of your demi. Yes, Tony was wicked smart when it came to anything food. Enjoy.
